 |
 |
 |
||
| Movement | In-house swiss automatic, in-house swiss quartz | Mechanical hand-wind | Swiss automatic | Quartz |
| Case Size | 29.5mm x 22mm, 41.6mm x 22.6mm, 33.7mm x 25.5mm | 35mm x 22mm | 38mm x 34.5mm | 31.5mm x 24mm |
| Lug to Lug | 40mm x 22mm, 54.08mm x 22.6mm, 43.5mm x 25.5mm | 41.7mm x 22mm | 51mm x 34.5mm | 38mm x 24mm |
| Band | Stainless steel bracelet, leather strap | Leather strap | Leather strap | Leather strap |
| Water Resistance | 30m | 50m | 50m | 30m |
| Key Benefits |
|
|
|
|
| Get It |
Buy Now at Chrono24
|
Buy Now at Amazon
|
Buy Now at Amazon
|
Buy Now at Berny Watch
|
Cartier Tank
|
|
| Movement | In-house swiss automatic, in-house swiss quartz |
| Case Size | 29.5mm x 22mm, 41.6mm x 22.6mm, 33.7mm x 25.5mm |
| Lug to Lug | 40mm x 22mm, 54.08mm x 22.6mm, 43.5mm x 25.5mm |
| Band | Stainless steel bracelet, leather strap |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Key Benefits |
|
| Get It |
Buy Now at Chrono24
|
Agelocer Codex Retro
|
|
| Movement | Mechanical hand-wind |
| Case Size | 35mm x 22mm |
| Lug to Lug | 41.7mm x 22mm |
| Band | Leather strap |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Key Benefits |
|
| Get It |
Buy Now at Amazon
|
Hamilton Boulton
|
|
| Movement | Swiss automatic |
| Case Size | 38mm x 34.5mm |
| Lug to Lug | 51mm x 34.5mm |
| Band | Leather strap |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Key Benefits |
|
| Get It |
Buy Now at Amazon
|
Berny Tank
|
|
| Movement | Quartz |
| Case Size | 31.5mm x 24mm |
| Lug to Lug | 38mm x 24mm |
| Band | Leather strap |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Key Benefits |
|
| Get It |
Buy Now at Berny Watch
|
Created by Louis Cartier himself, the Tank is the essence of Cartier.
Thanks to this pedigree, no other watch truly represents its brand the way the Tank does—and this even in comparison to the Submariner with Rolex, and the Calatrava with Patek.
Plus, that military-inspired square design is instantly recognizable, and has come to be the quintessential icon of easy elegance.
Cartier doesn’t pretend to be an accessible brand though, so the price of admission to this iconic model is high.
We scoured the market to find six Cartier Tank homages that satisfy a wide range of priorities, including ones for those of you who want that heritage and Swiss ancestry. Read on to see which one is the homage for you.
How Did I Come Up With My List?
I’ve been an auction house professional for a good decade. Out of all of the Cartier models, none have come across my desk as often as the Tank.
I developed this round-up using this experience, my experience with the choice homages (and as always, many that didn’t make the list), and through several consultations.
I spoke with colleagues, watch specialists, and fellow collectors. And of course, I spent hours reading and watching reviews, and diving into watch forums to cast a wide net of priorities.
6 Best Cartier Tank Homages
I’m going to address the pink elephant in the room here, and that’s the fact that choosing the Agelocer Codex Retro as my top pick might be controversial. If you’ve spent even five minutes in the major watch forums, the Seiko SUP880 very much wins the popular vote.
The SUP880 is excellent (and appears later in this round-up), however, I love the Codex Retro for two reasons.
First, good homages implement thoughtful differences on top of the core design of the source material. Visually, it’s impressive how far Agelocer takes the look without losing the Tank vibe. Between the non-wavy Roman numerals and the straighter lines of the silhouette, it’s an overall sharper watch.
Secondly, it runs on a fun and interactive mechanical hand-wind movement. The 27-jewel Cal A3350 is truly beautiful, flaunting sapphire screws, gold and silver embossed layers, and bright red jewels, all viewable through the caseback.
What I Like
- The tank shape, chemin de fer small seconds, and Roman numerals anchor the design in its source material, but the less Deco-esque lines throughout give it a distinct style.
- The Swiss mechanical movement is efficient and beautifully rendered.
- This watch has several premium features, including impeccable finishing (on the dial and on the movement) and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
What I Don’t Like
- While technically Swiss Made, Agelocer is known to push this status. It’s not a false appellate since there are legal standards to claiming that status, but a lot of production happens in China. This isn’t a huge deal, but a constant conversation among collectors on the internet. You may occasionally have to defend yourself.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
Reviewers love the perfect finishing and the fact the movement is so well decorated.
Many Reddit users agree it’s one of few high-quality Tank homages on the market, though the brand name gets some criticism, one poster joking that someone “spilt a load of letters over that dial.”
The stout crown gets a lot of love too, as it’s easy to grip and makes the watch fun to use.
The Verdict
The Agelocer Codex Retro is a well-finished and well-constructed Tank homage with a sharper aesthetic that stands on its own. Several premium features, like the sapphire crystal, also make this timepiece pretty spec-forward.
Add an interactive Swiss mechanical movement to the mix, and you’ve got all the boxes ticked, from the aesthetics to the horology factor.
The Agelocer Codex Retro is a well-finished and well-constructed Tank homage with a sharper aesthetic that stands on its own. Several premium features, like the sapphire crystal, also make this timepiece pretty spec-forward.
From the wavy Roman numerals to the sweeping case shape, the Hamilton Boulton leans hard into the Art Deco style of the Tank. The way the corner numbers pull into the edges definitely give this watch a swanky, Don Draper look.
It even has the royal blue hands, adding a stately color accent without too much overstated pop. And speaking of stately, the two-story crown makes it easy to use, while giving it a regal appearance.
Hamilton actually homaged the Tank in the ‘40s, this version being a to-the-tee reissue of the original model. This gives the watch a historical street cred that you don’t often get with homages.
Function-wise, the H-50 movement is a Hamilton-specific manual hand-wind with an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
What I Like
- As a reissue of one of Hamilton’s historical homages, the Boulton is a highly-esteemed model.
- The 80-hour power reserve of the mechanical movement provides reliability even after days without winding.
- The Art Deco-inspired design and sweeping silhouette is less understated than the Tank, but still classy and versatile.
What I Don’t Like
- The curved case makes it sit awkwardly on your wrist unless the strap is pulled to maximum tightness.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
Reviewers absolutely love the vintage aesthetic of the Boulton. Many praise Hamilton for such an era-accurate reissue because this allows people who love older styling to indulge without the stress and risks of buying an actual vintage watch.
The Verdict
Both in looks and status, the Hamilton Boulton is a legitimate and classic timepiece—a rarity in the homage world. On top of that, it’s fully Swiss Made and runs on a long-lasting manual hand-wind movement.
Both in looks and status, the Hamilton Boulton is a legitimate and classic timepiece—a rarity in the homage world. On top of that, it’s fully Swiss Made and runs on a long-lasting manual hand-wind movement.
Image Source: Berny Watch
Likely due to the non-applied indices and the fact sellers know they can outfit a cheap homage with an even cheaper plasticky “leather” strap without deterring buyers (the logic being buyers know they can always replace the strap), there are a ton of budget Tank homages on the market.
If you’re looking for pure visuals, the Sanda homage or the Pablo Raez are fine, wildly cheap options that are super popular on watch forums.
The Berny Tank gets our pick for budget homage because it’s slightly better finished than the Sanda and the Pablo Raez, and it has an undeniably beautiful dial.
Berny goes one step further than most fashion watch Tank lookalikes and implements the guilloche-esque pattern, which provides a level of complexity and visual intrigue.
And while it doesn’t make it look like a luxury watch per se, it definitely makes it look a bit more expensive than it is.
What I Like
- With a classic 38mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of only 8mm, this watch wears comfortably on all wrist sizes.
- The one-year guarantee provides security with purchase, which is a nice touch considering this is just a fashion watch.
- The guilloche dial is an attractive detail that most watches at this price point wouldn’t bother to take on.
What I Don’t Like
- Don’t trust the 30 meters of water resistance claim. This technically means it can handle splashes, but I’ve seen this watch malfunction even in moderate rain.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
Along with the previously mentioned Sanda and Pablo Raez, the Berny is in the holy trinity of cheap Tank homages, at least according to internet homage-seekers.
Reviewers agree that the Berny gets extra points because of small, but considerate details.
The dial aside, they use a sapphire coating on this watch’s mineral glass. Sure, it isn’t as good as an actual sapphire, but it’s more scratch-resistant than the often untreated mineral protectors on watches in the same price point.
The Verdict
The Berny Tank is an affordable homage that gives the general look and wear of the Cartier Tank. With its patterned dial, purchase guarantee, and even the extra sapphire coating though, it offers more than the average fashion watch.
The Berny Tank is an affordable homage that gives the general look and wear of the Cartier Tank. With its patterned dial, purchase guarantee, and even the extra sapphire coating though, it offers more than the average fashion watch.
The Seiko SUP880 has the same silhouette and slanted Roman hour markers as the Tank, but also has some clever visual details, which is likely why it’s one of most popular homages on the internet.
Like many Tank references, this watch has a patterned background, but instead of a guilloche-like design, there are sophisticated pinstripes, creating dimension and texture.
I also love the gold dots below each hour marker. They help with legibility, as well as adding extra dressiness. Other beautiful differences include the feuille hands instead of the Tank sword, and a black jewel crown instead of a blue one.
And while most people turn to Seiko for affordable mechanicals, the solar quartz movement in this watch allows it to be elegantly thin in addition to having an accuracy of plus or minus 15 seconds a month.
What I Like
- The design features great non-Tank details like the background texturing and index accent dots.
- The V115 solar quartz movement lasts up to 12 months when fully charged and constantly charges under any light.
- When it comes to Seiko, there’s a large online community that you can go to for questions and support.
What I Don’t Like
- The leather strap is stiff and feels cheap. Fortunately, it’s replaceable.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
The Seiko SUP880 is definitely the people’s choice when it comes to Tank homages.
While not at the level of notoriety as the SKX007 has as a Submariner lookalike, it’s difficult to hop onto any forum discussion thread about Tank homages without seeing at least a few mentions of the SUP880.
The Verdict
The Seiko SUP880 is a highly-respected Tank homage thanks to how it remixes the source material. The dial is still textured, but with a different pattern, and the crown is still jeweled, but has a different tone.
And since this is Seiko, the function and community support significantly ups the watch’s value proposition.
The Seiko SUP880 is a highly-respected Tank homage thanks to how it remixes the source material. The dial is still textured, but with a different pattern, and the crown is still jeweled, but has a different tone.
The Rotary Cambridge takes the general case shape and signature dial features of the Tank, and combines with details that look like they’re inspired by the Tank’s main competitor: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.
This is seen with the shorter, non-jeweled crown, and the multi-lined recessions around the dial face and between the lugs. This actually gives the watch a more multi-surfaced look than the Tank.
And in line with the model’s generally refined lines, the sapphire glass has an exquisite and uninterrupted curve.
What I Like
- The crisp printing and high-polish, dimensional case showcase a high level of finishing.
- With its thin build, smooth sweeping lines, and super clean silhouette, this is easily one of the most comfortable watches on the list.
- The PVD treatment of the stainless steel case and sapphire crystal up the durability factor.
What I Don’t Like
- It may contribute to the graceful look and comfortable wear, but the recessed crown is hard to use.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
While there’s a good amount of forum-goers who recommend the Seiko SUP880 over the Rotary, many agree that the unique and almost JLC Reverso-inspired case combines the best of both worlds when it comes to the square-watch hard-hitters.
The Verdict
The Rotary Cambridge is an evening-wear-appropriate timepiece that moves away from the Tank’s military-inspired case details (or lack of). On top of that, the construction is pretty premium, or at least durable, thanks to the PVD case and sapphire.
The Rotary Cambridge is an evening-wear-appropriate timepiece that moves away from the Tank’s military-inspired case details (or lack of). On top of that, the construction is pretty premium, or at least durable, thanks to the PVD case and sapphire.
If you take the hard-lined silhouette of the Agelocer and the bezel dimensionality of the Cambridge, you’d get the Bulova Classic 97B162. The extra step around the face matches the multi-surfaced look of the applied indices on the dial itself.
Also, the dauphine hands give the face a timeless opulence, while also making the dial easy to read. This is a smart design choice since the sleek, slanty non-Roman indices are so stylized, offering cosmetic balance and practicality.
Between that and the high luster throughout the design, this watch is a lovely partnership of vintage and modern elements.
What I Like
- This watch boasts more steps and dimension on its face and bezel than the actual Tank, offering striking light-play.
- Bulova watches come with a whopping three-year warranty.
- Since Bulova is owned by Citizen, this watch gets the benefits of the brand’s chops. This watch runs on the Miyota Caliber 9U13, a tuning fork type quartz that has a four-year battery life and claims to be accurate at +/-20 second a month, but has proven to be far more accurate for most wearers (including myself).
What I Don’t Like
- Though I’m not sure what the clasp on the strap is made of, it definitely isn’t stainless steel. It’s weak and scratches easily, which is a shame since it’s beautifully-designed and is embossed with the Bulova logo.
What Do Other Reviewers Say?
Reviewers agree that this Bulova is a high-value buy and keeps great time.
One reviewer mentions that the clasp makes her break out since it isn’t stainless steel. If you have allergies, I recommend having a replacement strap ready.
The Verdict
The Bulova Classic 97B162 is similar to the Hamilton in that it’s an homage, but comes from a heritage brand, and it takes visual liberties without compromising the classic look. Still, its quartz movement and mineral crystal puts it at a much lower price point, making it more economically accessible.
The Bulova Classic 97B162 is similar to the Hamilton in that it’s an homage, but comes from a heritage brand, and it takes visual liberties without compromising the classic look. Still, its quartz movement and mineral crystal puts it at a much lower price point, making it more economically accessible.
3 Quality Cartier Tank Alternatives
While an homage is built as tribute to a more expensive watch, its design anchored in that very watch, an alternative is a comparable model, a competitor or counterpart in the same collecting category.
That’s why the Cartier Tank alternatives here aren’t necessarily less expensive. If you’re in the market for a Tank or Tank homage, check out our worthwhile alternatives first.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is the Tank’s main competitor, coming from an equally as revered Swiss brand and sporting a similarly squared case. This Grand Taille is considered the power watch of the Reverso line, thanks to its 18k gold case and silver guilloche dial. If you’re looking for a status symbol, just know that this is the same timepiece worn by Don Draper in Mad Men and Leo DiCaprio in The Great Gatsby.
And since it was made for polo players, it has a slight sportiness to it as well. It’s a generally more masculine watch, when it comes to traditional styling.
The square watch of Baume & Mercier’s Range, the Hampton is much more modern-looking than the Tank, inside and out. Aesthetically, the Arabic numbers are easier to read and less ceremonial, though the sunburst dial ensures plenty of lightplay.
Meanwhile, the standard oyster bracelet has a more athletic styling to it than the leather strap typically paired with the Tank, which also balances out the curved case. This watch is powered by a highly-accurate quartz movement.
Because of its smaller size, this unisex watch is often labeled a ladies watch—Longines will agree with me that it isn’t. The Dolce Vita is often considered the more accessible Tank alternative, though it comes with the Swiss heritage and historical importance that Tank seekers love (though admittedly to a lesser degree).
It features blunt yet clean lugs and beautiful obelisk hands that are tonal with the Roman numerals. Status-wise, you can look at the Dolce Vita this way: The Cartier Tank represents an older, aristocratic look, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre is more of a deal-closer hustler flex. The Longines Dolce Vita represents a well-traveled man of leisure whose focus is the good life.
Which Cartier Tank Homage Should You Get?
Thanks to its distinctly sharp take on the Tank and fun mechanical movement, the Agelocer is our top pick. However, the Seiko SUP880 is arguably more popular for also going its own aesthetic direction while keeping the Tank’s feel and wear, while maintaining affordability.
The Agelocer Codex Retro is a well-finished and well-constructed Tank homage with a sharper aesthetic that stands on its own. Several premium features, like the sapphire crystal, also make this timepiece pretty spec-forward.
None on the list are more affordable than the Berny, which makes its well-rendered dial more impressive.
On the other side of the price spectrum, the Hamilton is a great investment piece that’s Swiss Made and boasts lore and history. The Bulova, while much cheaper than the Hamilton, is also a versatile piece from a heritage watchmaker.
Both in looks and status, the Hamilton Boulton is a legitimate and classic timepiece—a rarity in the homage world. On top of that, it’s fully Swiss Made and runs on a long-lasting manual hand-wind movement.
Meanwhile, the Rotary is a high-value homage with a durable build.
First, figure out what you love about the Tank. Then, figure out what you’re willing to pay. From there, you’ll know which timepiece on this list is the best for you.
FAQs
How can you tell a real Cartier Tank?
Tanks have the Cartier logo engraved on the back and lugs, as well as on the movement. Moreover, it should come with a serial number printed on the back that you can authenticate by contacting Cartier.
What is the rarest Cartier watch?
There are only four pieces of the Cartier Cheich, and sold for over a million on auction in 2022.
Ever since I received an Omega Seamaster for my 16th birthday, I fell in love with watches. Professionally, this led me to work for New York and LA’s leading auction houses. Personally, it led to a life as a collector, my Seamaster and my Explorer II being my favorite timepieces.
Recommended Reading
6 Best Omega Globemaster Homages & Alternatives in 2023
Want the striking yet versatile aesthetic of Omega’s Globemaster? Check out our six choice homages to get the look for less.
6 Best Patek Philippe Calatrava Homages & Alternatives in 2023
Want the refined versatility of Patek’s Calatrava? Check out our six choice homages to get the look for less.
6 Best Rolex Datejust Homages & Alternatives in 2023
Looking for a watch with the versatile sophistication of the Rolex Datejust? Check out our picks for its best homages and alternatives.
6 Best Rolex Submariner Homages & Alternatives in 2023
Want the iconic look of the Submariner without the hefty price tag? Check out our picks of the best Rolex Submariner homages and alternatives.
6 Best Omega Railmaster Homages & Alternatives in 2023
If you love the Omega Railmaster’s mix of vintage and modern elements but your budget isn’t quite there, check out these six homages.